Plastic Pinewood Derby Track

Derby Talk

I'm sure he, and I too, felt that we had no chance, so I did my homework, helped him learn the the ins and outs of building a car and making it fast. He became obsessed with spinning his wheels and reducing friction wherever possible, and this product sure helped.


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He came in second out of his whole scout pack of experienced racers, not just his den. He did a great job, and learned that friction can be your friend if you learn how to overcome it. Probably the first accessory someone should pick up. Lap counter goes to 99 and rolls over back to zero Just so you know it will count all ghost cars as the same ghost car in regards to laps. Also the ghost car is listed as driver 7. This is a great tool if your doing lots of axle fine tuning with your kid.

I've got two boys in cub scouts and this saved us lots of time with our axle and wheel prep. Exactly what the ad says. A block of real wood the same length and width as an official BSA pinewood derby car. Weighed a little over 4 ounces.

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Once paint, axles, and wheels were added it came in under the 5 Oz weight limit. I'm an avid pinewood derby builder. This tool is the best. The competitive metal one has a screw that hits the wheel when you attempt to remove it after you inserting the wheel in. This one slides out very easily.

Raced it in a open class no Raced it in a open class no rules dad's race. Would have won first place but another dad spun his wheels down on a lathe to make them more narrow. He barely beat me; hard to compete with that. I added weight and used slotted graphite axels with racing wheels. I'd definitely buy this again. I won third with little effort, wheels were a little different, but still close. I saw wheels come off with the guys who had the nail axles, So I really like the full axle, but it comes with both, just incase you have to use the nails in your pack.

Disassembly time is measured in seconds. Other tracks require tools and have a very large number of loose parts as many as bolts, nuts, 34 dowel pins, etc. Disassembly, although tedious, is often simplified by disassembling only partially. That's why other tracks will not fit back in the shipping container. Center guiding is the 'original' Pinewood Track design and one of many mistakes in that original design.

The guide rail should be high to keep the car in the lane, but it should be low to avoid having the car bottom rub. In fact the most common rubbing occurs on the front or back bumper at the bottom of the hill where the bend radius of the track is minimum.


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One aluminum track manufacturer has changed their bend radius for this very reason and because the other aluminum vendor made a big deal out of it! The smooth tapered edge of the ABS Plastic guide acts like a "Jersey barrier" to keep the wheel from climbing the wall. The modified center guide of the Aluminum tracks helps avoid dragging weights from slowing the car but doesn't solve the bumper at the bottom of the hill problem.

In addition, the modified center guide channels the air under the car creating potential "airplane wing lift" which can destabilize the car. Not to put too fine a point on it, but center-guided is not a "Standard". Rather it is a 'convention', long overdue for change. There are two different wood track "build it yourself" designs available on the internet with two different center guide widths!

There are tracks that have a constant slope from start to finish. There are tracks as long as 64', maybe longer. Your car should be designed to run on every track it's likely to run on.

That's part of the challenge and part of the fun and part of the learning experience at the foundation of the Pinewood Derby. Even tracks that are made from the same material and general design may not perform the same. Raised Rail stopping is another of the 'original' Pinewood Track design ideas that turns out to be a mistake. It's simple, it's cheap and clearly the bottom of the car sliding on carpet or rubber will act like a friction brake and bring the car to a slow, safe stop. The Raised Rail works great for a few cars but eventually the rail gets coated with dropped graphite, the friction disappears and the Raised Rail turns from a stopping method to a launching method.

Fine tune your car with this Pinewood Derby track. It's as easy as ABC!

SuperTrack comes with a 'garage' constructed of rigid ABS plastic bays with individual die cut soft "Memory" foam bumpers for each car. It's safe, it's soft and it's unaffected by graphite. The above table assumes a four lane, 32 or 35 foot Pinewood Track. The comparisons will be slightly different but in the same general range. For even more savings check out our system package pricing. Delivery times vary from each vendor depending on different factors.

Check with each vendor if this is important to you since some quote weeks or even months. The SuperTrack Pinewood Track currently ships within business days on all orders, the same day on many orders.

PineWood Derby Track Build Part 7

Time in transit varies from days depending on your location. The Starting Ramp launches the car down the track.

Derby Magic - Pinewood Derby Tracks, timers, software

It's curve is important. See this link for starting ramp slope issues of various track designs.

SuperTimer - One Stop Shopping for: They have now gone back to using three identical aluminum tracks where the times are somewhat consistent. My confusion was around "plastic" versus "PVC". So it is possible I did notice the lack of center guide. The major issue with the plastic track was that times were not comparable to the other tracks. So when you took the fastest from the plastic track to run on the other track they did not stay close to the same order.

This made people suspicious of some type of problem. One major issue is that the track was extremely fast. I don't remember how long it was but the times were around 2. The other tracks were over 54 feet aluminum and times were around 4 seconds.

Pinewood Derby Track

There might have been additional issues with the track that I was not aware of. PVC polyvinyl chloride is used for pipes mostly because it is cheap. ABS Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene see http: It is used everywhere from the fittings on your refrigerator to your garbage cans to your car's bumper! The joining fittings are PVC, tooling those was prohibitively expensive even in the quantities we use.

Overall it's extraordinarily rigid and lightweight. Early stands had three horizontal supports for the track surface. For several years now we've used four supports.